-Big Shoulders and Broken Trains
-Just Another San (Franciscan) Love Song
Travel Time-
Expenditures-
Chicago’s people are loud, brash and outspoken, but also very friendly. The streets are
crowded, loud and ringing with the sounds of horns being blown everywhere, but rather clean
for a city its size. The layout is easy to get around in, but still be sure to carry a map.
A walk though downtown Chicago is truly an unforgettable experience.
The CTA, just like the times I had used it in the past, is old, noisy and a little on the
unreliable side. It is very slow through the Loop and gets really crowded at any time of the
day. But at five dollars for an all day pass, it’s still really a bargain. Just be sure to
allow yourself a few extra minutes just in case you have to push the train in front of you
out of the way.
All things considered, I love the Windy City. The massiveness of its buildings. Its
Midwestern spirit. Chicago pizza. I can’t wait to go back.
After a few weather delays in Atlanta, I arrived at
Midway Airport right on time. I toured the airport for a few minutes before ascending to
the top of the parking garage for some great
views of downtown Chicago. From there, I headed toward the Chicago Transportation
Authority (CTA) subway station. After a rather long walk through the garage, I was there.
I purchased a five dollar day pass (Be sure to use the white automated machine. I wasted
five dollars when I used a blue machine. There went half of my transportation budget) and
boarded a train on the Orange Line toward the Loop.
The train was empty, so I took one of the “unsociable seats” (a single seat) and relaxed.
But that wouldn’t last long as, at the very next station, the train was filled with all kinds
of people. It was loud with laughter and talking and people shifting for position, but it
was good. I love observing people in their own cities and taking note of their subtle
differences from the ones I see everyday.
We had just left the Roosevelt Station, on time, and were headed toward
the Loop. My stop, at the Library Station, was next. But, just a few yards from our
station, we stopped. After a few minutes, a recorded message said that we were stopped
because of signals ahead and would be moving shortly. Ten minutes or so had passed, and we
still hadn’t moved. I noticed a train in front of us was stopped and watched for it to move.
Finally, after five or so minutes, we started moving. But the train in front of us wasn’t.
I watched curiously. We slowed to the very back of the other train and actually nudged it.
I looked down from our place thirty feet or so above the city street. "We’re going to
die..." I thought.
The conductor came on the PA and said that the train in front of us was "defective" and that
we were actually going to push it to the next station straight ahead, the Adams Station.
After a few minutes, we moved a few inches, then back a few feet. I could just see the
mangled mass of steel I’d be trapped in as we fell from the "L" tracks. Then, we moved a few
feet again. This went on for about thirty minutes as people talked frantically into their
cell phones about what was happening. Finally, another conductor took the helm and soon we
had the train out of the way and were at the Adams Station. Because of these delays, it
seemed all my time permitting portions were undoable.
I, and the rest of the people, got the hell off that train. I descended beneath
the "L" and walked east on Monroe toward Columbus and the lake front. There, I got some
awesome shots of the
line of buildings running on Columbus. I walked for a few blocks, amazed by the
buildings around me (it seemed you could see the
Sears Tower from anywhere) before heading toward the Randolph "L" Station to catch the
Brown Line to Northalsted.
The
"L" Stations on the loop are rather old with no escalators, so be ready to walk up a few
flights of stairs. But you do get some good views of the
street action below. But all I saw as I crossed the turnstile was a Brown Line train
pulling away. But it was no worry. The trains were supposed to run about every seven
minutes or so.
Another train approached, but it was a Green Liner. Then, a few minutes later, another Green
Liner. I was getting a little frustrated as I watched more precious minutes slip away at the
hands of the CTA. Then, another Green Liner. After twenty minutes or so, a Brown Liner
pulled up. It was standing room only with twenty minutes worth of people crowding on.
It was slow going as we headed north out of downtown Chicago. To our west I saw what
remained of the infamous Cabrini Green housing projects. More people got off than got on and
soon we could all breathe again. I decided, with my shortened time schedule, to get off at
the Diversey Station and walk the few blocks to Halsted Street. There, I pulled out my map
and saw that the area I wanted to see, Northalsted, was actually two stations further down
the line. I sucked it up and just began walking north.
I was not disappointed once I
crossed Belmont. There was the
line of shops and restaurants, formerly known as Boys’ Town, that I had come to see. It
wasn’t as clean or vibrant as other gay neighborhoods that I had been to, but it was still
rather impressive. Pedestrian traffic was rather sparse, but it was fairly early in the day.
I would love to see the Northalsted area at night.
I had decided from that point just to get on the Red Line subway at the nearby Addison
Station and go straight to the Magnificent Mile from there.
I disembarked at the rather unfitting Chicago Station. You would think the stop named after
the city would look better than just a glorified bathroom with trains running through it. I
walked east on Chicago for two blocks or so until I was in the
shadow of the John Hancock Center and the old Chicago Water Tower. From there, I headed
south on Michigan Avenue and onto the
Magnificent Mile.
The Mile was crowded with
upscale shops and
upscale people. Sure, there was stunning architecture, colorful landscaping, and a
Neiman Marcus, but what was so special about this place? It was nothing more than an urban
retail row you could find in any large city. So I just kept walking south.
I guess I had passed Grand and the subway station that I had planned to reenter as I crossed
the Chicago River, so I just decided to hoof it to the Clark Station which I knew was nearby
to catch the Blue Line subway. I crossed the river at the
Michigan Avenue Bridge and took a right onto Wacker, facing an
awesome line of gleaming glass and steel skyscrapers. I walked in their shadow, through
the popular
Chicago Theater District to the Clark Station, which is located underneath a rather
impressive vertical shopping mall and its glass atrium.
The Clark Station is just as gloomy and unimpressive as the Chicago Station. But, I was just
there for a few minutes before a Blue Line train arrived. The CTA, it seemed, was finally
redeeming itself.
I departed at the University of Illinois at Chicago Station, just to the southwest of
downtown. There, on a large grassy field at the campus’s northern fringe, one can get
awesome views of the impressive skyline. I stopped for a few minutes before making my
way back toward the Loop.
I walked north on Halsted toward Van Buren which I would take east into downtown. But there
at the intersection I noticed a Giordano’s Pizza, a place I had visited a couple of years
earlier when I visited the city with a friend. If you’re looking for real Chicago style
pizza, it’s here. It takes a while to cook, but is really worth it. And at $12.00 for a
medium pepperoni pie, it is really a bargain for the taste.
Finally, I crossed the
Chicago River into downtown once again. I walked a block north to Jackson so I could do
a walk by of the
Sears Tower. A few blocks later, there it was. All
1,400 impressive feet of it. I had visited the top a few years earlier and considered
doing it again. But I had decided to take an earlier flight out of Midway instead of O’Hare,
so it was out. I just stood there looking up in awe.
I reached the Quincy "L" Station on the Loop, right in the shadow of the Sears Tower. This
station was more impressive than the others; it had been refurbished to look like an early
twentieth century rail station. I boarded the next Orange Line train and headed back toward
Midway.
The train ride back was rather uneventful and I arrived at
Midway with more than enough time to make my 6:05 pm flight.
Chris, this is your planned itinerary for the day. Any deviation may result in loss of pool priviledges, dry skin, or
even death. Good luck. The Gals
- Arrive Chicago-Midway Airport at 10:24 am.
- Take the CTA Orange Line into downtown Chicago.
- Transfer to the Brown Line at the Library Station on the loop. Take the Brown Line north to
the Fullerton Station.
- Exit, walk a couple of blocks to the east, then north on Halsted Street until near the
Wellington Station (also on the Brown Line.)
- If time permits, see Hollywood Beach on Lake Michigan before taking the train back south to
the Loop.
- Transfer at the State Station to the Red Line subway. Take it north to the Chicago
Station.
- Walk a block or two east to Michigan (the Magnificent Mile) and walk south toward the Grand
Station.
- If time permits, visit the Navy Pier just off of the Magnificent Mile. I had been told a
lot about this place but hadn’t made it a priority since it sounded kind of kitschy.
- Take the Red Line back into the Loop and transfer to the Blue Line at the Washington
Station.
- Take the Blue Line-Forest Park to the UIC-Halsted Station where there are awesome views of
the Chicago skyline.
- Walk back toward downtown, touring the Loop area.
- Take the Blue Line, wherever I end up, back to the north.
- Arrive O’Hare International Airport in time for a 7:40 pm departure.